Japan doesn’t really do Christmas the same way the rest of the world does. In many ways, Christmas in Japan is kind of like Valentine’s Day in the states. Generally, kids get lots of candy and maybe some small presents (though, not everyone does this) and the family might gather to share a Christmas Cake. For the most part, though, it’s an excuse to throw parties, or to spend a romantic evening with someone special to you. In Japan, Christmas is a time for miracles, for letting children’s imaginations run wild, and for wondering at the ingenious marketing tactics that convinced Japan that the rest of the world eats KFC for Christmas dinner. The fact that Christmas happens to coincide with the two-week “Winter Break” in Japanese schools has more to do with the much more important holiday of New Year’s in Japan than it does with Christmas, though it’s easy to forget that as an English teacher. My life for the past few weeks has been a non-stop whirlwind of Christmas presentations, games, and arts and crafts. It’s not the most productive time of year as far as teaching the kids English, but one can hardly expect Elementary School students to sit still and pay attention when a vacation (and all the pomp and circumstance – and yes, presents – of the New Year’s celebration!) is just around the corner! It has been pretty interesting for me, though, to learn from my students just how incomplete the Japanese image of Christmas is. They know about Santa Claus, but have no idea where the tradition came from or what it actually signifies. They know all the tunes to the famous western Christmas songs, but almost no one can explain what the lyrics mean. It’s like the movie Nightmare Before Christmas (which is quite well-known by a certain generation of Japanese), where Jack takes the parts he likes (read: understands) about Christmas and throws the rest away. Why stick with tradition when you can make improvements?
I’m finding that this attitude permeates a lot of modern Japanese life. One other really good example is the phenomenon of “wasei-eigo” (和製英語), or “English made in Japan”. When Japan incorporated western ideas and technologies into its society during the Meiji Restoration and after WWII, they borrowed a lot of foreign (mostly English) words to describe the new things being brought in. In some instances, though, the existing English words were too long or difficult for Japanese preference, so the words were shortened or altered (or in some cases entirely fabricated) to suit the needs of the Japanese. This resulted in words like “handoru” (from “handle” – “steering wheel” in English), “jetto ko-suta-” (from “jet coaster” – “roller coaster” in English), and “makudo” (“McDonald’s” in English). Certainly these changes made it easier for the Japanese to incorporate new and strange-sounding words into their vocabulary (to the point where, these days, a native English-speaker who doesn’t know a word in Japanese can simply say the English word in a manner that apes Japanese pronunciation and have a good chance of being understood), but true-to-form the Japanese have actually taken it a step further: they no longer even recognize the original pronunciation as valid. Don’t believe me? Try asking a Japanese person where “McDonald’s” is. You’ll get a blank stare. They won’t have any idea what you’re talking about. Say “makkudonarudo“, however, and they’ll at least know what you’re talking about (though, they’ll think you’re weird for not abbreviating it). Some Japanese you might encounter will even insist that their pronunciation is correct! Naturally, this can be a bit frustrating to someone trying to teach the English language to young (and sometimes apathetic) Japanese. (I was actually called out once for going to extraordinary lengths not to spell things out in Katakana – one of the Japanese alphabets – and had to explain to the teacher that I didn’t want to encourage the kids to think of the words in Japanese syllabic pronunciation… I’ve since given up on that with the older kids.)
Just to clear my conscience with regards to my Japanese friends and teachers, it’s worth noting that the English-speaking world most definitely does this same thing with Japanese loan-words (like karaoke, typhoon, tempura, etc. – try pronouncing them in the correct Japanese manner to an American if you don’t believe me). What makes Japanese use of English loan words extraordinary, in my opinion, is the fact that they tend to shorten or invent words where the existing words don’t serve their purposes.
Where Christmas is concerned, however, I tend to point out to Japanese who ask me that Japan has generally adopted the best parts of Christmas anyways. I can certainly understand enjoying present-giving and good cheer without all the religious trappings, and fastidious attention to tradition is hardly the point of Christmas. In my mind, my job with regards to Christmas is more to share new and additional ways to have fun with the holiday. That’s why about half the Elementary Schools in my town now have VAST collections of student-created paper snowflakes. The dirty looks the school principals have been giving me are totally worth it!
I’m heading home for Christmas next week, but since most of the time between now and then is down-time I might have time for another post… So many pictures to share, and so little free time to write posts in! Instead, I’ll just leave you with some Xmas Cheer™ from Japan!

Xmas Donuts at Mister Donut in Japan!

Strawberry Snowmen waiting to be adopted (by my stomach)!

“Please don’t eat me! I have a wife and three starving children!”
Too bad for you, mister Green Tea Snowman. Too bad for you.
… Alright, so I might have had to force myself to eat the eyes first. Was icing in just the right place to resemble tears REALLY necessary, Mister Donut?
E
Tags: Anthropology, Christmas, Food, Japan